A new look at beauty14 August 2017
A new look at beauty
In the latest educational supplement on trends that are impacting the packaging industry, Packaging Today examines the personal care and cosmetics markets. With the help of GlobalData, we see what’s driving the beauty market in 2017.
Looks and personalisation have historically dominated consumer motivation in the personal care market. In association GlobalData’s consumer division, this report explores the varied and vibrant world of personal care to bring a current market assessment. Cosmetics are included as a subsection of personal care for this report. Though there is a separate cosmetics-only report earlier in the year, personal care here will include toiletries, baby products and cosmetics.
While the numbers associated with packaging are usually of a scale that is difficult to understand, this assessment will take millions of packaging units as the measurement for the current market. In addition, it is sometimes helpful to have an idea of change year-to-year so this summary will include any key differences between now and last year.
In the past 12 months, there has been a 3.9% increase in personal care packaging by number of units in the market, from 89,680 million units to 93,240 million currently. The current packaging mix is dominated by flexible at 45% market share and rigid plastics at 39% with a very distant third place for paper and board at 7%.
While the market may be vast, there are a number of key trends that affect consumer motivations to use the products that are filtering through to packaging. Overall, the impact of toiletries and hygiene products on health and well being is most influential on consumer purchasing decisions. In addition consumers are seeking out products that are more directly tailored to their needs .
Today's consumers are highly engaged by concepts that can offer more tailored solutions, particularly products that target specific features or body areas, or are tailored to their local climate and environment. In terms of future potential in this space, there is significant interest in products that can improve the impact of technology on health and appearance as well as products that do not require water, such as Berocca’s fizzy melt tablets that dissolve on the tongue, or the single use shaving pods from Pacific Shaving company. This suggests that some of the overarching themes that are driving interest among consumers – and thus could be key areas to explore – include those that can enhance efficiency and align with sustainability credentials by avoiding water use.
Consumers today consider their time to be precious, cramming as much in as they can, resulting in more stressful lifestyles. They are busier than ever before but their actual working hours have not increased, at least in Europe or North America. With improved technology, there is always more to do, whether for business or for leisure, which can leave people feeling overwhelmed. This explains why 53% of global consumers agree that they often feel tired, while 54% claim they need an energy boost to get them through the day. This creates a clear product opportunity in many categories for energy as consumers seek to gain energising benefits from topical solutions as well as more traditional food and drink routes.
Perceptions of caffeine’s efficacy remain low within the personal care space, so brands can better appeal to consumers by using coffee or caffeine as an ingredient due to the positive efficacy perceptions it provides consumers. An example of this in action is from Vivalue Tribe, whose body candle is made of vegetable and bio hemp oil and comes in multiple flavours including coffee and is packaged in paper and materials that will degrade completely with use so there is no waste. As consumers seek out health-promoting yet energising food and drink, one ingredient that could meet this need is matcha. There are a number of new packs that feature this as a key ingredient, the most recent being Masker Wajah’s Vienna Face Food line of face masks which include a Matcha whitening mask in easy to use sachets. The correct dose is provided by using a sachet and the product is easy to dispose of once used. Merz Consumer care have also gotten in on the opportunity with their shower gel launch earlier in the year of Match Tea Goji Berry which is also vegan friendly as well as made from resourced plastic. While 57% of global consumers say they are unfamiliar with this ingredient, the efficacy perceptions of green tea are very high at 84%.
Quality and price must be considered in a product but brand and product familiarity also play a part in attracting consumers, especially for those aged 45 and above. This is a good opportunity for a brand or ingredients associated with energy outside the category to enter this sector. Offering ingredients that can be ingested will give the impression of much faster absorption of energy, without the negative aspects of coffee such as fat and sugar intake.
Novelty and experimentation
Experimentation is a key driver in many categories such as beauty, and this can also apply to the toiletries and hygiene sector. Currently, consumers are most adventurous when it comes to bath, shower and soap products, followed by toothbrushes, toothpaste and deodorants. These could potentially be the best categories to consider when it comes to offering consumers unique ingredients or concepts such as the Yes To company who have been using unique products and formats into their packaging to create engaging and novel product lines. The Yes To tomato face mask with charcoal for example provides a DIY face mask that combines unique ingredients and delivery. One possible strategy is using ingredients that are seen as having a positive impact on health in a particular region yet are still unknown in many countries, such as charcoal. While many consumers still do not see it as a personal care ingredient, its novelty creates opportunities, particularly if these are linked to efficacy or combined with ingredients that already have positive associations.
While efficacy is likely to be prioritised when shoppers consider new product purchases, packaging can help to create unique and exciting opportunities to meet the needs of experience-driven consumers. Distinctive packaging can be used to promote products, deliver a new experience, and create value for money.
Consumers prefer transparent packaging, which is likely because they are more ingredient-aware and care about what goes on their skin. Uniqueness and bright colours can encourage new product experiences, which consumers find more exciting than new products.
What consumers look for in the beauty sector can be reflected in toiletries and hygiene products. They are more sensitive about the ingredients used to manufacture these products because the ingredients could directly affect the skin and oral care applications. However, this can also broaden opportunities for new experiences for consumers. For instance, Guangzhou Weimeizi has taken inspiration from the skincare category to offer a toothpaste that comes in two tubes, one for daytime and the other for the evening.
A product can deliver efficacy credentials as well as a unique sensory quality. This can be a valuable differentiator for brands. Cross-category approaches can lead to higher prices but the cost can be justified by making products multifunctional. Considering that high-quality ingredients and authenticity are also key aspects in the toiletries and hygiene sector, combining these with uniqueness will certainly have the potential to differentiate products from the competition.
The Bad, Baby Hairspray from Vante Brands is an aerosol can that contains hairspray but is disguised as a pen. It comes in an impact-extruded two-piece aluminium aerosol can with straight sides and printed decoration. The packaging is completed by an injection moulded white plastics aerosol spray actuator with raised triangle pointer and snap-on overcap with a clip.
The hairspray uses Aerosmall technology. Aerosmall is described as ‘the world's first pen-sized, ultra fine mist aerosol technology’. The company says it allows for maximum concentration of all formulas with over 200 sprays in each bottle. The aerosol pen is approved by the TSA, meaning it can be carried in airline cabin baggage. This provides a clean and easy means of applying hairspray on the go. The aerosol stick can be carried easily in a handbag or travel bag for use away from home. The non-typical size and shape of the pack introduces an unusual manual ritual has multiple potential applications across other personal care products.
In perfume, the Commodity brand has a Cocktail Kit set that includes miniature versions of all ten unisex fragrances from the brand’s white and black collections. They are designed either to be layered together or worn individually. The kit allows users to experiment with their own bespoke scents depending on their mood or the occasion.
Meanwhile, Beauty and Care AG have built on the continued popularity of the hit Disney film Frozen with a children’s bath and shower gel with strawberry scent in a bottle shaped to resemble the film’s heroine Elsa. The pack is made of rigid PVC which ensures it does not bend when used and can sustain its shape. This also means that the gel cannot be squeezed from the bottle. However, its level of detail is quite good and it can be even used as a toy when the gel is finished. It will appeal to children, though the company says the toy should not be used by those under three.
Trend and efficiency
Currently, 54% of global consumers feel that they do not have enough time in the day to do the things they would like to do. This is a trend that seems to be escalating since the number of consumers who heavily rely on time-saving products has increased by 21 percentage points from 2014 to 2016. This illustrates the importance of creating accelerated solutions that do not affect the efficiency of their regimes. In this sector, the next level of products are those that ‘just add water’ or do not need water for application.
Yes To Natural’s Man Shower To-Go cleansing cloths are face and body cleansing wipes aimed at men. They contain aloe extracts, oat oil and coffee extract to help users feel refreshed and energised, while quickly cleansing without the need for a shower. This may be seen as a very useful convenience when travelling. Packed in easy to carry pouches they can be dropped into a bag and provide a convenient way to stay clean on the move.
Similarly in Japan, the Kracie Creer cleansing water is a four-in-one makeup remover, cleanser, pore cleaner and toner. Similar to micellar water, it requires no washing off, so consumers just need to apply it onto their face using cotton pads. The product comes in two types, Spa Water and Oil In, designed for different amounts of make-up. By combining all functions into an easy to carry plastic bottle, Kracie can be taken on the go like a bottle of water , and once used can easily be disposed of in the recycling stream like a PET water bottle.
Instant Care soap tablets come in pop-out blisters for individual use. Each pack contains ten tablets, and the product comes in three varieties: antibacterial, sport and jasmine. This on-the-go format will allow consumers to wash their hands with soap anywhere. This will be particularly convenient for occasions where liquid soaps are not ideal.
One way to stand out as a clean brand is by using a fashionable image and tying in with fashion trends. In general, younger consumers are more likely than older consumers to believe that products formulated with ‘natural’ ingredients are equally effective as ‘non-natural’ products. This suggests that a fashionable image has the potential to influence the purchasing decisions of younger consumers and their interest in natural and plant-based ingredients.
Clean labelling means different things to various types of consumers, so using recognised ingredients from other categories could help. When it comes to food and drink, consumers pay attention to the ingredients used in the products they consume because they want products to be made the ‘right’ way. This can easily apply to toiletries and hygiene products too, since products in this category generally make direct contact with the skin. Consumers believe the term ‘natural’ refers to products made from real, non-synthetic ingredients with no preservatives. This is similar to the top three definitions consumers give to the ‘clean’ label. Using ingredients that consumers recognise from other sectors, such as vegetables and fruits, might also help create a cleaner image, especially ingredients that already have a good reputation, such as Pacifica who have their premium Micellar Cactus water which is vegan friendly, cruelty free and is claimed to provide a more refreshing clean then simple water; botanicals are thought to provide a more natural clean, and this is reflected in the clear plastic bottles they come in which look natural and are easy to recycle.
Lola is a monthly subscription-based sanitary product range available in the US. The products are 100% cotton, hypoallergenic and biodegradable, with a compact plastic applicator that contains no bisphenol A. The creator has said that she focused on cotton because it is a material that people are familiar with and know to be natural. Love Wellness is a brand made by a reality TV celebrity, Lo Bosworth, formerly of The Hills. The range consists of ‘all-natural’ feminine hygiene products, including the Do It All 100% cotton intimate wipes, which are PH-balanced wipes made from coconut oil that offers soothing cleansing on-the-go. The packaging is quite simple, unlike other typical intimate products, allowing more discretion.
Pacifica has launched a new skincare range made up of kale water, coconut water and cactus water. Each option comes in a micellar water format, but the kale version is also offered as a facial cleanser and as facial wipes. All of the products are vegan and include ingredients from the food and drink market that consumers consider to be healthy. The packaging is also quite decorative, making this a fashionable item
The toiletries and hygiene sector can be challenging to innovate in, as consumers are conscious about ingredients and product functionality. This limits how adventurous a product can be, leading to similar concepts across many products on the market. One trend that is emerging is that of products that add a new step to consumers' routines. For example, this might be an extra product designed to be used between shampoo and conditioner, or a hand cream to be applied just before washing the hands. Since younger consumers are more open to increasing the number of products in their daily beauty and grooming routine, this concept could work well in the beauty sector. According to GlobalData research, 48% of consumers aged 25–34 say they are willing to increase the number of products they use to improve their appearance. This could create a completely new segment within the toiletries and hygiene market, allowing brands to differentiate themselves. However, the added routine must be justified and manufacturers need to prove to consumers that the new step will offer improved results.
Another way to entice consumers into adding an extra product into their standard regime is by taking inspiration from other cultures. Younger consumers are already more likely to use six or more products for their daily beauty routine than any other age group. The same cohort are also the most interested in beauty products from a foreign country or products that follow foreign trends. However, many are still not actively buying such products, illustrating potential for this concept.
French brand Clarins has an All-in-One Pen for eyes and lips, featuring four colours. There are three eyeliners – in black, brown and indigo blue – plus one nude lip liner. Packaging consists of an injection moulded dark brown plastics pen format containing four different colours. The barrel of the pen is formed in two parts: the upper part can be rotated clockwise on a click ratchet-type system and has four slit-type apertures, each housing a switch to allow selection of one of the four different colours. Each switch is connected to a colour cartridge similar to a biro-ink cartridge, and as the switch is pushed downwards along the slit, the corresponding colour tip appears at the end of the pen. To change colour, the consumer pushes another switch to retract the first colour and select the next.
This is the first multicolour retractable pen format used for makeup products and is reminiscent of the multicolour retractable pens often used by children, creating a feeling of nostalgia for consumers. The product offers consumers a convenient means of carrying a variety of colours without purchasing several different eye and lip liners. It will reduce clutter in a makeup bag or handbag and is ideal for taking on the go or while travelling. The pen allows multiple steps to be performed with the same product, creating a new usage occasion and making the experience of using the product novel and memorable. The pack is easy to operate one-handed - flick the switch down using the thumb and it's ready to use.
Another example is from the Yes To company with their Yes To Tomatoes Detoxifying Charcoal mask. This DIY-style detoxifying charcoal skin mask comes in the form of powder with charcoal and tomatoes among the ingredients. It has to be mixed with water, plain yogurt or honey before applying to the skin. According to the manufacturer, the clarifying clay mask dries in 10 minutes, leaving skin soft and clear.
Packaging consists of an injection blow moulded white plastics jar, and an injection moulded domed screw cap closure. There’s a black stripe printed around the rim on the outside and two measuring lines marked ‘one’ and ‘two’ on the outside. There is also a moulded black plastics curved spatula attached to the top of the inner lid.
Powder is added to line one and water to line two. The resulting mix becomes a clay that can be applied to the face in a thin layer using the spatula. After 10–20 minutes, a damp face cloth and warm water can be used to completely remove all traces. For a more indulgent treatment customers can combine the powder with yoghurt or honey and experiment with their own masks.
This packaging concept helps to achieve a more precise formula and enables the consumer to tailor the end product to their liking. Having a cap with measured markings is very useful and helps to dispense the right amount of powder. The mask preparation process creates a memorable manual ritual that may help to establish stronger emotional ties with the brand. This ‘mix-your-own’ product format may also help to reduce product wastage by allowing the consumer to prepare only the exact amount of product required.